6:40am

This month starts on a Sunday. Fitting since I seem to have my most spiritual moments on the water. I guess the ocean’s my temple. Last night I had a late night, and I’m feeling it this morning. The suit didn't want to get on, and I messed up and got sand in it. That’s going to hurt all day. I start off light, there’s no one else around and that feeling of competition you get from the crowds is totally absent. The waves are small, breaking over one another in a way that causes you to become totally absorbed in what you’re doing. Two hours go by before I look up again.

1:30pm

It’s amazing how much time can change things. After a little lunch at the car I came back to the beach to find it really crowded. I don’t mind surfing in a crowd, I just didn’t seem to be in the mood for it today. After the third time of being cut off or just about mowed down by a new surfer I bailed. I just don’t have time for this today.

5:00am

That’s right, 5am. It’s early, REALLY early, but I’ve driven down to Casa Josiem in Baja for some early morning surf. The sun is just a warm hint on the horizon as we get up and eat breakfast. Ever had red beans and rice for breakfast? The way they cook it here they take the previous night’s red beans and rice, pat it into a cake and grill it on a griddle. It’s WAY better than you think. After breakfast we hit the beach. Tom and Tony came with me and Tony’s testing out the new Fearless board that Groundswell gave him. He seems to like it, but the balance is different than what he’s used to. I’ve seen him ditch it at least three times this morning.

The surf today is incredible, with nice 6ft breaks running parallel to each other. You can ride one wave all the way in; it’s just an amazing day. Oh, did I mention the place is deserted?

2:45pm

Well, today’s the first day of the Ventura Open. Team Groundswell is here in force, with Tony, Frank, Mary, and me all competing. I’ve drawn my favorite slot, dead last. I love seeing what other competitors are doing with the waves before I go. It lets me know exactly how far to push the envelope. I feel totally calm.

4:30pm

Disaster! I have no idea what happened, but during one of my runs the board just fell out from under me. Not only did I lose it during a ride, but I hit really hard. My knee is swollen about 5 times its normal size and I couldn’t make my last run. Not a good day.

7pm

We hit the local bar after the competition. Tony won, so I’m really happy for him. I finished 4th, despite crashing and burning as bad as I did. Not bad considering. Well, tomorrow’s another day…